Eating our way arond Crete

Crete

OMG – today we have had the most amazing day in Crete – one of the best I have ever had in all our travels – but I am getting ahead of myself!!

We anchored off the port town of Aghios Nicholas and caught an early tender with our group of 8.We had booked 2 taxis to show us the sights of Crete and they did not disappoint.

Lefteris and his friend Ilias were waiting with their two Mercedes taxis and we first gathered around the back of the car and looked at the map of Crete. Lefteris pointed out the main sites and then asked if we wanted to follow the history of Crete, or we wanted to see the real life of the people of Crete – we all answered in unison - :”the real life of the people” – and Lefteris broke into a gigantic beaming smile when he said ‘ well I have a great day in mind for you with lots of surprises” – and it turned out that he was a man of his word – surprises around every corner.

Our first stop was along the road above the Aghios Nicholas harbour at a lookout to get a fabulous view back over the bay to where the ship was located.

Lefteris suggested a stop at the Palace of Knossos – perhaps the most famous ancient site in Crete – and he promised that this would be our only tourist stop “after all you can’t come to Crete without seeing the legendary home of the Minotaur and the Labyrinth”. Our stop at the palace did everything to reaffirm the reasons why we avoid big group tours wherever possible – it was crowded and very hot since this is the peak holiday season. Apparently Crete has 3 million tourists every year and almost half of them are from Russia.

As we drove along the highway towards the capital Iraklion, Lefteris told us about the history of Crete – the two main industries and tourism and agriculture since the island is self-sufficient – whatever is grown in the local area is on the day’s menu – true seasonal eating – the only food which is imported is beef – the main local meats are seafood, goat and lamb.

 We drove through a small village and suddenly Lefteris stopped and jumped out, returning with a bag of sugar bananas – the local speciality – for us to try - this was to become the pattern for the day – Lefteris would suddenly stop by the roadside and bring back herbs – thyme, basil, sage, rosemary, as well as different local flowers growing by the roadside – and his enthusiasm was very contagious. Next stop – a roadside stall specialising in selling local figs – and they were delicious.

While we were inside the Palace of Knossos, Lefteris visited the local pastry store and so when we came back to the car, he had boxes of Spanakopita to share – yummy.

Once we were in the car after the palace, we turned down a country lane and he said – “now we leave the tourists behind and we visit the real people of Crete” – and we did.

 First stop – the wine maker – the Stilianou winery and olive farm just outside the village of Kounavi – high on a hill with wonderful vistas in every direction – this is on organic winery which mainly serves local people – the red wine is kept in the vats for 6 years and is then bottled to drink. Yianni, a fifth generation wine maker was very proud to take us  for a tour of the wine making process and his cellar, before we sat down at a long table to sample the wines and breadsticks dipped in the local olive oil – it was unlike any olive oil I have ever tasted – more like olive juice.

While we tasted the wines, Lefteris surprised us again – magically producing a box of sweet local pastries – we were on a gastronomic adventure through Crete

Lefteris and Ilias kept asking us if we wanted lunch yet, and we kept saying – “not yet” we are too full from all your surprises!!

Next stop - it was time to taste real Greek coffee – so back into the village we went – and sat in a tiny courtyard under a large shady tree – while the ‘mama’ of the restaurant made the coffee – and then brought out platters of sliced rich red tomatoes and cucumbers dressed with herbs and olive oil accompanied by soft fresh bread sticks, plates of smooth creamy feta cheese, a type of bruschetta, and a warm bean casserole dish. We were all issued with a fork and a serviette and it was time to taste – no standing on ceremony or worries about ‘double dipping’ nonsense – just great delicious simple local foods shared around a plastic table with great friends in a tiny village in Crete – does life get any better?? And the total bill for the ten of us – 15 euros!!!!! no, not each but for the WHOLE group!!!

But the surprises were to keep coming.

Next stop – fruit for dessert – at a roadside fruit stall. We all piled out into a little corrugated iron building by the side of the road and the three generations of the farming family manning the stall quickly set up chairs for us – while the grandma cut up delicious dark red water melon. We were also issued with small plastic glasses which were filled with the local home-made liqueur - I smelled it and then Joanne suggested to me that you have to scull it – so I did – much to the amusement of the farmers - and I couldn’t get my breath for a few minutes as my face turned red and it burned all the way down – true ‘firewater’!!!

We were lucky that Joanne has Greek heritage and so she was immediately smooth the way for our group everywhere we went – she quickly made friends with the village women wherever we went – and we were welcomed and treated like family. Who would think you could have so many laughs sitting in a roadside fruit stall in Crete??

But the adventure wasn’t over yet.

Next stop – the local shepherds shop – again along the back-roads through farming land covered with olive trees, grape vines and orange groves – and stopped at a small shop with a pizza oven out the back roasting a sheep – but it was time to sample the local Greek yoghurt – out it came on a plate drenched with lemon myrtle flavoured honey – and a fork for everyone – as well as the local Mythos beer for the men and white wine for the ladies – while across the road a donkey casually munched on the grass!!!

And then Lefteris announced that it was time for lunch – ‘Maybe tomorrow’ was our reaction!!!!

All too soon we had to return to the port after a stop at the local Greek Orthodox monastery. Sadly we farewelled our wonderful guides and explored Aghio Nicholas on foot before returning to the ship to wave goodbye to Crete – a port which wasn’t on our original itinerary – but one which has left us with lasting fond memories.

We experienced so many local delights on our travels through the back-roads of Crete as we were welcomed into our Crete family for the day – it really felt like we were visiting old friends – and we were so happy to avoid the tourists at all the famous mythological and historical sites for a taste of real Crete.

What a wonderful day!!
Our fabulous guide was Lefteris Nikiforakis from www.taxiservices-crete.gr - We would highly recommend him - we couldn't fault our tour with him.